Just 70 kilometers east of Oaxaca City lie the timeless petrified waterfalls of Hierve el Agua. Close to the archeological site of Mitla and resting over the Sierra Mixe of Oaxaca, this natural landmark offers astonishing mountain views, static cascades, and turquoise-emerald pools. Water flows constantly and silently, leaving its trace in a subtle yet everlasting way as if frozen by time.
Hierve el Agua translates as “boiling water.” But despite what the name suggests, these are not hot-water springs. The water is slightly warm as it comes out of the earth but becomes cold as it concentrates between the rocky pleats at the top of the waterfalls. Nonetheless, the name is a poetic description of this phenomenon: water gushes and bubbles from small cracks, seeming to boil, even if it isn’t.
The cold water leaves behind a mineral trace and slides into a free fall of over 50 meters. These petrified waterfalls have formed thanks to the concentration of minerals subtly accumulated over the years. From a distance, it seems they’ve entirely “frozen” with time, inert, immovable. But closer, the warm water coming out from the small craters that fill the waterholes reveals how alive it is. When a cavity is obstructed, the water pressure finds other escape fissures. It’s a cyclical and dynamic process.
A place where time seems to pass slowly but not inertly as the water flows, leaving its trace in its wake. The sum of years and years has made these petrified waterfalls a static movement.
This beautiful natural site invites you to wander through its lively ambiance. Water and mineral concentrations have created an amber and ocher coating. The color of the water pools goes from fluorescent vivid greens to deep blues like those in the open ocean; the unique pleats on the rock create fascinating rusty-red patterns. The textures and colors on the site are a delight to the senses. No wonder this site was sacred for the Zapotec people who have inhabited the area since ancient times.
Over the top of the most noticeable cliff, there’s an esplanade with several pools. Yet, contrary to what logic may suggest, these stone formations are not entirely natural. Several man-made pools blend naturally with the scenery. By now, they’ve been covered by a golden coating of minerals that end up embellishing them in such a way that makes it hard to distinguish them from the natural.
The lonely tree standing in front of one of the pools is one of the most iconic images of Hierve el Agua, a postcard that reminds us of the scale of these sacred mountains.
Wandering through the site, we enjoyed the view and the stillness. Early morning, though, it was still too cold to dive into its blue-jaded waters. So, instead, we went down a path into the wilderness. A couple of trails surround the area to help appreciate the cascades from different angles. After a few minutes of walking downwards, their monumental size and dramatic fall appeared even more impressive and almost surreal when seen from below.
By the time we started our way up, the warmth of the day was rising, and I could already feel my skin lightly toasting as the sun’s rays began to fill the atmosphere. As we hiked back, the idea of submerging in the cold pool didn’t seem crazy anymore. But our stomachs were already roaring with hunger. So we headed out towards the entrance where local food stands awaited us. We enjoyed quesadillas, tacos, and Oaxaca’s popular crunchy tlayudas covered with quesillo and a slightly spicy touch of homemade salsa.
Your Guide to Visiting
Hierve el Agua
How to Get There
- By Car: Hierve el Agua is about a 1.5-hour drive from Oaxaca City. You can rent a car or hire a private taxi. The paved and scenic road offers glimpses of the surrounding Sierra Mixe.
- By Bus: Take a bus or colectivo from Oaxaca City to Mitla, then switch to another colectivo heading to Hierve el Agua. The journey can take around 2-3 hours, depending on demand. The collective only departs once it’s full.
- Tours: Several tour operators in Oaxaca City offer day trips to Hierve el Agua, often including stops at Mitla and local mezcal distilleries.
Best Time to Visit
- Early Morning: Arrive early to avoid crowds and enjoy the serene atmosphere. The pools and trails are less crowded, and the lighting is perfect for photography. Most tours arrive around 9:00 am, and it starts slowly getting quite crowded.
- Weekdays: Weekends and holidays can be busy. Visiting on a weekday ensures a more peaceful experience.
What to Bring
- Swimsuit and Towel: Enjoy a dip in the refreshing pools.
- Comfortable Shoes: Essential for exploring the trails and getting the best views of the waterfalls.
- Sunscreen and Hat: Protect yourself from the strong sun, especially during midday.
- Water and Snacks: While there are food stands at the entrance, it’s good to have some water and snacks for the hike.
Things to Do
- Swimming: Take a swim in the natural and man-made pools.
- Hiking: Explore the trails that offer various perspectives of the petrified waterfalls.
- Photography: Capture the stunning landscapes and unique geological formations.
Local Cuisine
- Food Stands: At the entrance, try local delicacies like quesadillas, tacos, and tlayudas.
- Mezcal Tasting: Combine your visit with a mezcal tour to taste Oaxaca’s famous spirit.
Safety Tips
- Stay Hydrated: The hike and sun can be exhausting, so make sure to drink plenty of water.
- Watch Your Step: The trails can be steep and slippery. Hence, wearing sturdy footwear does make a difference. Of course, as always, when hiking, be cautious.
Hierve el Agua is more than just a natural wonder; it’s a place where you can connect with nature and history. Whether you’re soaking in the mineral-rich pools, hiking the scenic trails, or indulging in local cuisine, a visit to Hierve el Agua promises an unforgettable experience.
