As dawn illuminates the horizon, the distant crowing of roosters mingles with the promise of a beautiful day. We descend from the majestic Cerro del Fortín to the city’s heart, where a spectacle of vivid colors and green limestone architecture invites us to learn about it. Every corner is a canvas of art and design, the illustrated mosaics and the flower and scorpion-shaped gates that adorn the Centro Cultural San Pablo and the Instituto de Artes Gráficas, respectively. Oaxaca breathes art in every detail and is a daily exhibition of the diversity of its culture.
Into Oaxaca’s Soul
In downtown Oaxaca, start at the bustling Mercado 20 de Noviembre, where the aromas of traditional cuisine fill the air. Next to it, Mercado Benito Juárez displays a dazzling tapestry of handicrafts, food, and flowers, celebrating the essence of Oaxaca.
The Zócalo is covered by trees casting shade above a kiosk flanked by arches, cafes, and restaurants. The Catedral Metropolitana rises majestically in front of the Alameda, where you can enjoy danzones and music. A few steps away, the Centro Cultural San Pablo and the Museo Textil invite us to learn about the creativity and mastery of Oaxacan artists. Walk down the García Vigil cobblestone street, and then go to the Andador Turístico Macedonio Alcalá. The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman, with its baroque architecture and gold ornamentation, is an emblematic site. Next to it, the Museo de las Culturas invites you to explore the richness of Oaxacan history. Visit the Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo and the Instituto de Artes Gráficas, where visual expressions come to life. In the Jardín Etnobotánico, you will find a variety of local flora, although you can only enter with a guided tour. A few feet away, at the Museo de la Filatelia, you can find a whole universe of postage stamps and correspondence.
Outside the center, you can’t miss the Xochimilco neighborhood, once famous for table linen and tinsmithing, and the Jalatlaco neighborhood, which used to house leather and tanneries, and today is filled with colorful murals and flowering trees.
- Mercado 20 de Noviembre
- Mercado Benito Juárez
- Zócalo, Plaza de la Constitución
- Catedral Metropolitana
- Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad
- Centro Cultural San Pablo
- Museo Textil de Oaxaca
- Teatro Macedonio Alcalá
- Andador Macedonio Alcalá
- Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo
- Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca
- Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán
- Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca
- Jardín Etnobotánico
- Museo de la Filatelia
- Barrio de Xochimilco
- Barrio de Jalatlaco
Into Oaxaca’s Culinary Scene
The gastronomic offer in Oaxaca is a feast for the senses, reflecting the diversity and richness of the entire state. Crunchy tlayudas, hot chocolate, quesillo, mole in its seven variants—black, red, yellow, green, coloradito, estofado, and chichilo—, tamales, rice atole, and sweet yolk bread are just some of the delicacies that unfold in every corner.
Start the morning with a fluffy concha at Criollo or a Shakshuka breakfast at Boulenc. For chocolate, whether it be in the form of a paste, bar, hot or cold drink, a trip to Chocolate Mayordomo is a must. Restaurants like Origen, Tizne, and Levadura de Olla (with a highly recommended guava mole) are true temples of Oaxacan gastronomy, and at the classic Los Danzantes, the shrimp tlayuda is delicious.
Evenings in Oaxaca are ideal for relaxing outdoors, like at Amá Terraza or Tierra del Sol, chef Olga Cabrera’s Mixtec cuisine. Adamá, among the arches of Xochimilco, offers Israeli flavors, and at Zandunga Sabor Istmeño, you can enjoy dishes from the Isthmus region. And not to leave you craving anything, Los Pacos offers a tasting of the seven types of traditional mole.
- Criollo
- Boulenc
- Chocolate Mayordomo
- Origen
- Amá Terraza
- Levadura de Olla
- Tizne
- Los Danzantes
- Tierra del Sol Cocina Mixteca
- Zandunga Sabor Istmeño
- Adamá
- Los Pacos Oaxaca
Into Oaxaca’s Arts and Design
At the Museo Textil, not only is the work of artists exhibited. In its store, you will also find the creations of designers such as Vianney Méndez and Nadya Padilla. Los Baúles de Juana Cata is a favorite shop where you can explore diverse textiles, while Marchanta and Origen Textil use tradition to create new models. If you’re looking for ceramics, Colectivo 1050º offers authentic masterpieces. Galleries such as Voces de Copal, Córdoba Lab, and Matamoros 404 invite you on a journey through contemporary Oaxacan art. As for graphic arts, find inspiration in the workshops of Burro Press, La Chicharra, and El Armadillo.
- Museo Textil de Oaxaca
- Los Baúles de Juana Cata
- Marchanta
- Hilo de Nube
- Origen Textil
- Colectivo 1050º
- Voces de Copal
- Córdoba Lab
- Matamoros 404
- Taller Burro Press
- Taller de Gráfica La Chicharra
- El Armadillo
Surrounding Oaxaca City
Extend the journey beyond the city limits. To the north, the Centro de las Artes de San Agustín in Etla, a former textile factory, is now a space that hosts exhibitions and workshops. In Santa María Atzompa, you will find talleres of green clay, while Monte Albán, with its pre-Columbian temples, will transport you back in time. To the south, San Bartolo Coyotepec works the mysterious black clay, and in San Martin Tilcajete, alebrijes come to life in workshops such as Jacobo y María Ángeles.
The southeastern route takes you to the widest tree, the Árbol del Tule, and to Teotitlán del Valle, where traditional textiles are worked and contemporary styles are created, as in Taller Ocho. Also, shell candles are made there, as in Casa Viviana. On Sundays, the Tlacolula Market is a burst of colors and aromas, while Santiago Matatlán immerses you in the mystery of mezcal. To close the trip, visit the archaeological site of Mitla and the natural beauty of Hierve el Agua.
- Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CASA)
- Santa María Atzompa
- Monte Albán
- San Bartolo Coyotepec
- San Martín Tilcajete
- Santa María del Tule
- Teotitlán del Valle
- Mercado de Tlacolula
- Santiago Matatlán
- Mitla
- Hierve el Agua
Oaxaca is a melting pot of traditions and a feast for the senses. Every corner, every flavor, and every smile of its people reminds you that here, in this little piece of Mexico, art, history, and passion merge into a unique experience.
